FIRENZUOLA This fourteenth century hamlet is nestled between the Santerno river
and Monte Coloreta. This “little Florence” was founded
on 9 April 1332 to control transportation and guarantee safety
for traders. The Ubaldini besieged and destroyed it several times,
burning it to the ground in 1342 and 1351. In 1358 to stop the
expansionistic ambitions of the Visconti, the Florentine Republic
actively defended the town and built a sturdy wall around it. Construction
of the fortress - Rocca di Firenzuola - was begun in 1373 and lasted
for nearly forty years. However, in 1488 Lorenzo the Magnificent
decided to modernize town’s entire defenses. Antonio da Sangollo
the Elder was commissioned to reinforce the walls, with corner
bastions, internal guards’ walks and escarpments. The interesting
Museo di Pietra Serena dedicated to the local gray stone is located
in what was once the moat. The urban layout, typical of the “new” Florentine
territories, has remained unchanged: a main street closed on either
end by a town gate, and a central piazza with the fortress – the
Rocca – and the rectory. Even the surroundings are fascinating:
from the Carolingian church of the Cornacchiaia to the small church
Badia di Moscheta which, set against a delightful natural background,
is the ideal starting point for excursions on foot or horseback.
It is worth stopping at Bruscoli to see the permanent educational
exhibit that includes archeological finds from the excavations
along the ancient cobbled road, among the ruins of the Medieval
castle of the Alberti counts and there are sections dedicated to
rural customs and farm equipment in general and to the Gothic Line.
BARBERINO The town is modern, but it has a past filled with history and some very interesting
monuments. The place name of Barberino comes from the coat of arms of the Cattani
family of Combiate that built a castle in a strategic position during the Middle
Ages that dominated the Stura and Lora valleys from atop a hill. The coat of
arms, that was carved into an architrave in the castle depicted a man’s
head with three beards. In 1313 the Florentine Republic purchased the rights
to Barberino from the Cattani family and from the local bishop and sent its representatives
to the town. But a few years later the Florentines themselves destroyed the castle,
after Niccolò da Barberino’s about face: notwithstanding the agreements
with Florence he opened the gates to the enemy troops of Giovanni Visconti. The
landowner offered shelter and protection to the soldiers led by Giovanni Oleggio
who used it as a base for successful attacks against Latera, Villanova and Galliano.
Today, the main places of interest are the fifteenth century town hall Palazzo
Pretorio, the clock tower, and the Medici loggia with the sixteenth century portico
by Michelozzo. Nearby are the Badia di Santa Maria a Vigesimo and the Villa delle
Maschere currently under restoration, and, of course the Villa di Cafaggiolo
that is “shared” with the town of San Piero a Sieve. Not far is the
Bilancino lake, that first made the news in 1857. Now, enclosed by the big dam
(710 meters long and 42 meters high) it is a true tourist attraction.
BORGO SAN LORENZO Florence
conquered this town, the region’s main farming and industrial
center today, in 1290. The Romanesque Pieve di San Lorenzo is,
even older, dating from the XII century with its hexagonal bell
tower that overlooks the apse frescoed by Galileo Chini and the
Medieval town center with its narrow, winding streets. In the church
of the Madonna del Cardellino, there is a sixteenth century painting
by the artist known as the Maestro delle Madonne. The Villa Pecori
Giraldi is home to the Museo della Manifattura Chini dedicated
to a family of brilliant artists (see the bell-tower mentioned
above) that left its mark abundantly throughout the area. Nearby,
just beyond the old Franciscan monastery, there is the Romanesque
church of San Giovanni Maggiore, with a fine XI century octagonal
bell tower. A lovely excursion will take you to Sagginale and the
ancient (IX century) Pieve di San Cresci a Valcava.
MARRADI “ Although
it has no walls, or even a river, the mountains and the inhabitants
make it strong, because the men are armed and loyal,” according
to Nicolò Machiavelli in his History of Florence. Famous for
wrought iron and chestnuts, the fief of the Guidi Counts was conquered
by Florence in 1428. It has linked its name to the poet, Dino Campana
who was born here in 1885. In the Centro Studi Campaniani there is
a permanent exhibit that includes various editions of his works,
magazines and journals in which they were first published and reviews,
documents from the municipal archives and iconographic materials.
The main buildings in the town are the Palazzo del Comune (the city
hall), the church of the Suffragio and the Teatro degli Animosi.
The Romanesque Abbey of Santa Reparata (1050) dates from the feudal
period, and inside you can admire paintings by the Maestro da Marradi,
one of Ghirlandaio’s followers.
LOIANO This
village is famous primarily for the Astronomic Observatory of the
University of Bologna. The powerful telescopes in the two buildings
provide excellent views of the heavens. Loiano also offers some remarkable
historical sites such as the church of San Giacomo e Santa Margherita
that was built by the Augustinians in the XIV century.
CASTEL DEL RIO The
local inhabitants are known as alidosiani because the village changed
hands from Matilde di Canossa to the Alidosi family who enriched
it with important buildings over a long period of time. First and
foremost is the Palazzo degli Alidosi, home of the Museo della Guerra
(War Museum). The XV century mule-back bridge crossing the Santerno
just outside the village also bears the same name.
CASTIGLION DEI PEPOLI This
village is nestled amidst the main mountains of the area, but the
main attractions are located on its outskirts. At Baragazza there
is the Santuario della Madonna di Bocca di Rio, which according to
legend was erected by two young shepherds on 16 July 1480. Cornelia
Evangelisti and Donato Nuttini had a miraculous vision of the Virgin
Mary who asked them to build a sanctuary to her in the forest. The
sanctuary is lacking a bell tower, once again tradition tells us
that it was impossible to make the bells: each time they were cast
they disappeared! Not far from the town center is the Brasimone lake
that was created in 1911 with a 32 meter high dam on the river of
the same name. The lake offers fishing and water sports and there
is also a small museum-center dedicated to energy and the environment.
MONGHIDORO Originally
this village was called Scaricalasino – literally, “unload
the mule.” The reason is quite simple, this was the papal customs
station between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna and the mules had to be
unloaded in order to inspect the goods they were carrying. In addition
to the main square, the other points of interest are the Santuario
della Madonna dei Boschi (1680) at Campeggio. The sanctuary houses
an image of the Virgin of St. Luke that is taken to the parish church
every year for the Rogations. Nearby, at Vergiano is the old church
of San Alessandro and a nucleus of XVI century houses.
PALAZZUOLO SUL SENIO
The former fief of the Ubaldini is the home of the fourteenth century
Palazzo dei Capitani which became famous because it hosted Pope
Julius II who was traveling with Nicolò Macchiavelli. In
1506 the pontiff was crossing the lands of the Florentines with
his troops in order to reach Bologna and re-conquer it from the
Bentivoglio who had the support of the Venetians. The palazzo is
home to the Museo delle Genti di Montagna (dedicated to the mountain
people) and the Museo Archeologico dell’Alto Mugello. Nearby
are the Badia di Susinana (XIV century) and the Pieve di Misileo
which was rebuilt in the eighteenth century yet still conserves
its original Romanesque crypt.
SCARPERIA This,
one of the area’s largest towns was established by the Florentine
Republic in 1306 in order to offset the feudal power of the Ubaldini
family. It is famous for its centuries of tradition in producing
hand-crafted cutting implements: blades, knives, scissors and metal
objects. The tradition is kept alive in the Museo dei Ferri Taglienti
(Museum of Cutting Implements) and in the many factories that are
still flourishing and open to visitors in the area. The most important
monument, without a doubt is the Palazzo Pretorio, a significant
building in fourteenth century Tuscan style that was built by the
Florentines and then in 1415 became the seat of the Vicariate of
the Mugello district. Today it resembles Palazzo Vecchio in Florence
and towers over the center of the town that is still enclosed by
the ancient walls. The coats of arms on the façade and the
frescoes decorating the inside court and the upstairs room are outstanding.
The artworks include a Virgin and Child with Saints that has been
attributed to Ghirlandaio. On the other side of the square is the
Propositura dei Santi Jacopo e Filippo with its neo-Gothic façade
that has a marble tondo by Bendetto da Maiano and a tabernacle by
Mino da Fiesole. There are two very interesting oratories: the Oratorio
della Madonna di Piazza has a fine Della Robbia tabernacle framing
the Virgin and Child by Taddeo Gaddi, and the Oratorio della Madonna
dei Terremoti hosts the famous fresco by Filippo Lippi. Nearby, is
Pieve di Sant’Agata, a Romanesque parish church with a Della
Robbia tabernacle. Just outside the town is the famous Autodromo
internazionale del Mugello, the modern temple of motors that also
hosts international championship races.
SAN PIERO A SIEVE The
village was born as an important road junction near the old bridge
that crossed the Sieve; the road continued up across the Giogo Pass
to Bologna, and it was the only route. Even the Florentine Republic
realized it when in 1372 it financed repairs because the leaders
had grasped its strategic value. In fact, they decided to build a
masonry structure to replace the old wood-and-stone bridge that spanned
the river. But San Piero does not end with its bridge. The Pieve
di San Pietro is one of the oldest, if not the oldest parish church
of the Mugello district since it is already mentioned in a document
dating from 1018! Even though it has been partly remodeled it still
reveals its Romanesque style that was common throughout the Florentine
countryside in the XI and XII centuries. Just opposite the Oratorio
della Compagnia on the site where the hospital has stood since 1275.
But the old medieval of the Ubaldini truly developed under the Medici
who had left significant imprints on the area. We can begin with
the Convento del Bosco ai Frati in the middle of a thick, natural
forest of oak, beech and Turkey oak. In 1420 Cosimo commissioned
Michelozzo Michelozzi to remodel the monastery complex that houses
a wooden Christ that has been unanimously attributed to Donatello.
Not far from here is the splendid Villa di Cafaggiolo designed by Michelozzo
in 1451, it is truly impressive and complex. An interesting fact is that some
parts of the villa are in the town of San Piero and others in Barberino.
On a hill – that can be readily reached on foot – nestled amongst
beech and oak trees is the Castello di Trebbio built between 1427 and 1436 that
dominates the area. One of the Medici family’s favorite villas, for a long
period it hosted the soldier of fortune Giovanni dalle Bande Nere – son
of Cosimo I de’Medici - and his wife, Maria Salvati.
The Fortezza di San Martino, designed for Cosimo I de’ Medici by Buontalenti
overlooks the village from a hilltop.
VERGATO
Here we are on the Bologna-side of the Apennines and the first thing
to see is the fifteenth century town hall, decorated with coats
of arms and known as the Palazzo dei Capitani, because it was the
headquarters of the Captains of the Mountain. Nearby is the historic
church of Sant’Apollinare (documented since the XII century)
at Calvenzano that belonged to Matilde di Canossa. And there is
also something quite bizarre, just on the other side of the Riola
bridge: the Rocchetta Mattei, a real castle built in the Arab-Moorish
style. Riola also boasts a jewel of contemporary architecture,
the church of Santa Maria Assunta, designed by the Finnish architect,
Alvar Aalto.
VICCHIO This
town, situated in a gentle landscape, is famous for its sons, Giotto
and Beato Angelico. There are no longer any doubts as to Giotto’s
birth: he was born into a peasant family on the Vespignano hill and
the house is visited by many every year. Beato Angelico was born
at San Michele a Rupecanina, a small hamlet not too far from Vicchio.
His real name was Guido di Piero Tosini, then when he became a monk
he took the name Fra’ Giovanni. He is known as Beato Angelico – because
his art was considered “angelic”. The new Museo Beato
Angelico (a museum of religious art) is, obviously dedicated to him.
All that remains of the Medieval fortifications are ruins of the
wall and of a tower known as the Torre dei Cerchaiai. In the center
of town we should not forget the home of Benvenuto Cellini and the
eighteenth century Oratorio della Misericordia. Important archeological
excavations of Etruscan sites at Poggio Colla, conducted by some
American universities can be visited in June and July. Don Lorenzo
Milani was the parish priest who lived and worked in the tiny village
of Barbiana. A refined intellectual, sensitive to the problem of
educating the poorer classes, he dedicated his life to helping them
improve their lives. For the more curious, just outside the town
is the Ponte della Ragnaia, also known as Ponte di Cimabue - Cimabue’s
Bridge, because according to tradition this is where the two masters
met (Cimabue and Giotto).
This fourteenth century hamlet is nestled between the Santerno river
and Monte Coloreta. This “little Florence” was founded
on 9 April 1332 to control transportation and guarantee safety
for traders. The Ubaldini besieged and destroyed it several times,
burning it to the ground in 1342 and 1351. In 1358 to stop the
expansionistic ambitions of the Visconti, the Florentine Republic
actively defended the town and built a sturdy wall around it. Construction
of the fortress - Rocca di Firenzuola - was begun in 1373 and lasted
for nearly forty years. However, in 1488 Lorenzo the Magnificent
decided to modernize town’s entire defenses. Antonio da Sangollo
the Elder was commissioned to reinforce the walls, with corner
bastions, internal guards’ walks and escarpments. The interesting
Museo di Pietra Serena dedicated to the local gray stone is located
in what was once the moat. The urban layout, typical of the “new” Florentine
territories, has remained unchanged: a main street closed on either
end by a town gate, and a central piazza with the fortress – the
Rocca – and the rectory. Even the surroundings are fascinating:
from the Carolingian church of the Cornacchiaia to the small church
Badia di Moscheta which, set against a delightful natural background,
is the ideal starting point for excursions on foot or horseback.
It is worth stopping at Bruscoli to see the permanent educational
exhibit that includes archeological finds from the excavations
along the ancient cobbled road, among the ruins of the Medieval
castle of the Alberti counts and there are sections dedicated to
rural customs and farm equipment in general and to the Gothic Line.
The town is modern, but it has a past filled with history and some very interesting
monuments. The place name of Barberino comes from the coat of arms of the Cattani
family of Combiate that built a castle in a strategic position during the Middle
Ages that dominated the Stura and Lora valleys from atop a hill. The coat of
arms, that was carved into an architrave in the castle depicted a man’s
head with three beards. In 1313 the Florentine Republic purchased the rights
to
Barberino from the Cattani family and from the local bishop and sent its representatives
to the town. But a few years later the Florentines themselves destroyed the castle,
after Niccolò da Barberino’s about face: notwithstanding the agreements
with Florence he opened the gates to the enemy troops of Giovanni Visconti. The
landowner offered shelter and protection to the soldiers led by Giovanni Oleggio
who used it as a base for successful attacks against Latera, Villanova and Galliano.
Today, the main places of interest are the fifteenth century town hall Palazzo
Pretorio, the clock tower, and the Medici loggia with the sixteenth century portico
by Michelozzo. Nearby are the Badia di Santa Maria a Vigesimo and the Villa delle
Maschere currently under restoration, and, of course the Villa di Cafaggiolo
that is “shared” with the town of San Piero a Sieve. Not far is the
Bilancino lake, that first made the news in 1857. Now, enclosed by the big dam
(710 meters long and 42 meters high) it is a true tourist attraction.
Florence
conquered this town, the region’s main farming and industrial
center today, in 1290. The Romanesque Pieve di San Lorenzo is,
even older, dating from the XII century with its hexagonal bell
tower that overlooks the apse frescoed by Galileo Chini and the
Medieval town center with its narrow, winding streets. In the church
of the Madonna del Cardellino, there is a sixteenth century painting
by the artist known as the Maestro delle Madonne. The Villa Pecori
Giraldi is home to the Museo della Manifattura Chini dedicated
to a family of brilliant artists (see the bell-tower mentioned
above) that left its mark abundantly throughout the area. Nearby,
just beyond the old Franciscan monastery, there is the Romanesque
church of San Giovanni Maggiore, with a fine XI century octagonal
bell tower. A lovely excursion will take you to Sagginale and the
ancient (IX century) Pieve di San Cresci a Valcava. 
“ Although
it has no walls, or even a river, the mountains and the inhabitants
make it strong, because the men are armed and loyal,” according
to Nicolò Machiavelli in his History of Florence. Famous for
wrought iron and chestnuts, the fief of the Guidi Counts was conquered
by Florence in 1428.
It has linked its name to the poet, Dino Campana
who was born here in 1885. In the Centro Studi Campaniani there is
a permanent exhibit that includes various editions of his works,
magazines and journals in which they were first published and reviews,
documents from the municipal archives and iconographic materials.
The main buildings in the town are the Palazzo del Comune (the city
hall), the church of the Suffragio and the Teatro degli Animosi.
The Romanesque Abbey of Santa Reparata (1050) dates from the feudal
period, and inside you can admire paintings by the Maestro da Marradi,
one of Ghirlandaio’s followers.
This
village is famous primarily for the Astronomic Observatory of the
University of Bologna. The powerful telescopes in the two buildings
provide excellent views of the heavens. Loiano also offers some remarkable
historical sites such as the church of San Giacomo e Santa Margherita
that was built by the Augustinians in the XIV century.
The
local inhabitants are known as alidosiani because the village changed
hands from Matilde di Canossa to the Alidosi family who enriched
it with important buildings over a long period of time. First and
foremost is the Palazzo degli Alidosi, home of the Museo della Guerra
(War Museum). The XV century mule-back bridge crossing the Santerno
just outside the village also bears the same name.
This
village is nestled amidst the main mountains of the area, but the
main attractions are located on its outskirts. At Baragazza there
is the Santuario della Madonna di Bocca di Rio, which according to
legend was erected by two young shepherds on 16 July 1480. Cornelia
Evangelisti and Donato Nuttini had a miraculous vision of the Virgin
Mary who asked them to build a sanctuary to her in the forest. The
sanctuary is lacking a bell tower, once again tradition tells us
that it was impossible to make the bells: each time they were cast
they disappeared! Not far from the town center is the Brasimone lake
that was created in 1911 with a 32 meter high dam on the river of
the same name. The lake offers fishing and water sports and there
is also a small museum-center dedicated to energy and the environment.
Originally
this village was called Scaricalasino – literally, “unload
the mule.” The reason is quite simple, this was the papal customs
station between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna and the mules had to be
unloaded in order to inspect the goods they were carrying. In addition
to the main square, the other points of interest are the Santuario
della Madonna dei Boschi (1680) at Campeggio. The sanctuary houses
an image of the Virgin of St. Luke that is taken to the parish church
every year for the Rogations. Nearby, at Vergiano is the old church
of San Alessandro and a nucleus of XVI century houses.
PALAZZUOLO SUL SENIO
This,
one of the area’s largest towns was established by the Florentine
Republic in 1306 in order to offset the feudal power of the Ubaldini
family. It is famous for its centuries of tradition in producing
hand-crafted cutting implements: blades, knives, scissors and metal
objects. The tradition is kept alive in the Museo dei Ferri Taglienti
(Museum of Cutting Implements) and in the many factories that are
still flourishing and open to visitors in the area. The most important
monument, without a doubt is the Palazzo Pretorio, a significant
building in fourteenth century Tuscan style that was built by the
Florentines and then in 1415 became the seat of the Vicariate of
the Mugello district. Today it resembles Palazzo Vecchio in Florence
and towers over the center of the town that is still enclosed by
the ancient walls. 
The coats of arms on the façade and the
frescoes decorating the inside court and the upstairs room are outstanding.
The artworks include a Virgin and Child with Saints that has been
attributed to Ghirlandaio. On the other side of the square is the
Propositura dei Santi Jacopo e Filippo with its neo-Gothic façade
that has a marble tondo by Bendetto da Maiano and a tabernacle by
Mino da Fiesole. There are two very interesting oratories: the Oratorio
della Madonna di Piazza has a fine Della Robbia tabernacle framing
the Virgin and Child by Taddeo Gaddi, and the Oratorio della Madonna
dei Terremoti hosts the famous fresco by Filippo Lippi. Nearby, is
Pieve di Sant’Agata, a Romanesque parish church with a Della
Robbia tabernacle. Just outside the town is the famous Autodromo
internazionale del Mugello, the modern temple of motors that also
hosts international championship races.
The
village was born as an important road junction near the old bridge
that crossed the Sieve; the road continued up across the Giogo Pass
to Bologna, and it was the only route. Even the Florentine Republic
realized it when in 1372 it financed repairs because the leaders
had grasped its strategic value. In fact, they decided to build a
masonry structure to replace the old wood-and-stone bridge that spanned
the river. But San Piero does not end with its bridge. The Pieve
di San Pietro is one of the oldest, if not the oldest parish church
of the Mugello district since it is already mentioned in a document
dating from 1018! Even though it has been partly remodeled it still
reveals its Romanesque style that was common throughout the Florentine
countryside in the XI and XII centuries. Just opposite the Oratorio
della Compagnia on the site where the hospital has stood since 1275.
But the old medieval of the Ubaldini truly developed under the Medici
who had left significant imprints on the area. We can begin with
the Convento del Bosco ai Frati in the middle of a thick, natural
forest of oak, beech and Turkey oak. In 1420 Cosimo commissioned
Michelozzo Michelozzi to remodel the monastery complex that houses
a wooden Christ that has been unanimously attributed to Donatello.
This
town, situated in a gentle landscape, is famous for its sons, Giotto
and Beato Angelico. There are no longer any doubts as to Giotto’s
birth: he was born into a peasant family on the Vespignano hill and
the house is visited by many every year. Beato Angelico was born
at San Michele a Rupecanina, a small hamlet not too far from Vicchio.
His real name was Guido di Piero Tosini, then when he became a monk
he took the name Fra’ Giovanni. He is known as Beato Angelico – because
his art was considered “angelic”. The new Museo Beato
Angelico (a museum of religious art) is, obviously dedicated to him.
All that remains of the Medieval fortifications are ruins of the
wall and of a tower known as the Torre dei Cerchaiai. In the center
of town we should not forget the home of Benvenuto Cellini and the
eighteenth century Oratorio della Misericordia. Important archeological
excavations of Etruscan sites at Poggio Colla, conducted by some
American universities can be visited in June and July. Don Lorenzo
Milani was the parish priest who lived and worked in the tiny village
of Barbiana. A refined intellectual, sensitive to the problem of
educating the poorer classes, he dedicated his life to helping them
improve their lives. For the more curious, just outside the town
is the Ponte della Ragnaia, also known as Ponte di Cimabue - Cimabue’s
Bridge, because according to tradition this is where the two masters
met (Cimabue and Giotto).